Meknes: The Imperial City of Moulay Ismail

Rising from the fertile plains of northern Morocco, Meknes stands as a monumental testament to the vision and ambition of one of Morocco's most powerful rulers. This imperial city, once intended to be the "Versailles of Morocco," combines military might with architectural splendor in a unique urban landscape that earned it UNESCO World Heritage status. While often overshadowed by its more famous imperial counterparts—Fez, Marrakech, and Rabat—Meknes rewards visitors with magnificent historical sites, a relaxed atmosphere, and a genuine glimpse into Moroccan life less influenced by mass tourism.

The defining period in Meknes' history came during the reign of Sultan Moulay Ismail (1672-1727), who selected the city as his capital and transformed it through one of the most ambitious building programs in Moroccan history. Known for his ruthless efficiency and megalomaniacal tendencies, Moulay Ismail employed an estimated 50,000 slaves to construct massive ramparts, monumental gates, extensive palaces, and enormous granaries and stables that could support his 12,000 horses. The scale of these projects remains astonishing today, with city walls extending for 40 kilometers and incorporating defensive structures that represented the height of 17th-century military architecture.

The most impressive entry point to the imperial city is Bab Mansour, widely considered the grandest of all imperial Moroccan gateways. Completed in 1732, this monumental structure features marble columns repurposed from the nearby Roman ruins of Volubilis, intricate zellij tilework, and imposing carved wooden doors. The gate leads to Place El Hedim, a vast square that serves as the connection between the imperial city and the medina. This expansive plaza, though smaller than Marrakech's famous Jemaa el-Fna, offers a more authentic atmosphere where locals gather in the evenings for casual socializing, street performances, and open-air markets.

The imperial city complex contains several remarkable structures that showcase the grandiose vision of Moulay Ismail. The massive Heri es-Souani, sometimes called "the granaries," consists of vaulted chambers and an ingenious system of ventilation and water channels designed to preserve grain for years as a safeguard against famine and siege. Adjacent to these granaries are the royal stables, designed to house 12,000 of the sultan's prized horses in individual stalls. Though largely in ruins today following an 18th-century earthquake, the scale of these structures remains impressive, with stone arches stretching as far as the eye can see. The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, restored to its original splendor, allows visitors (including non-Muslims) to glimpse the refined aesthetics that contrast with the sultan's military focus, featuring delicate plasterwork, cedar ceilings, and marble columns surrounding the tomb of this formidable ruler.

Beyond the imperial city, Meknes features a compact and navigable medina that offers a more relaxed alternative to the overwhelming labyrinths of Fez or Marrakech. Here, authentic artisanal traditions continue in workshops producing damascene (metal inlaid with gold and silver wire), embroidery, and woodwork. The covered market, Kissariat Al-Kifah, provides a shaded venue for exploring local crafts, textiles, and culinary specialties. Throughout the medina, architectural highlights include the 14th-century Bou Inania Madrasa, with its exquisite courtyard featuring cedar carvings and zellij mosaics, and the Grand Mosque, whose distinctive square minaret dominates the skyline.

The Ville Nouvelle, developed during the French Protectorate period, offers a striking contrast to the historical areas with its wide boulevards, modern administrative buildings, and European-influenced architecture. This district, centered around Place Administrative, houses many government offices, banks, and commercial establishments. The blend of traditional and colonial urban planning creates a city of distinct quarters, each with its own character and rhythm of life.

Meknes benefits from its strategic location in one of Morocco's most important agricultural regions. The surrounding countryside, known as the "granary of Morocco," produces abundant wheat, olives, wine grapes, and fruits that supply the city's vibrant markets and contribute to its distinctive culinary traditions. Local specialties include versed pastilla (a sweet-savory pastry originally made with pigeon but now often prepared with chicken), various tagines featuring seasonal produce, and nougat made with local honey and almonds. The weekly rural markets bring producers from surrounding villages into the city, creating a vibrant exchange between urban and rural traditions.

The environs of Meknes offer several compelling excursions. The sacred town of Moulay Idriss, perched dramatically on two hills approximately 30 kilometers from Meknes, houses the tomb of Moulay Idriss I (founder of Morocco's first Islamic dynasty) and has only recently opened fully to non-Muslim visitors. Even closer lie the magnificent Roman ruins of Volubilis, the empire's most remote outpost in Africa, where remarkably preserved mosaics and imposing architectural elements testify to the sophistication of urban life in the 2nd and 3rd centuries CE.